Taman Negara

We booked a minibus to take us from the Cameron Highlands to the steamy jungle of Taman Negara which was a 2 stage journey with the final stretch being by long boat into the jungle. The minibus journey was uneventful at 3 hours as luckily Kathy and I managed to secure the whole front row between us to spread out while everyone else got squashed in the back. The minibus dropped us at the jetty where we had to buy permits to enter the jungle and a camera permit to take photos which altogether come to just over £1. Then, after the usual mayhem and lack of communication by the boat company, we were eventually levered into these long boats with all our luggage to speed off into the jungle. It was an amazing experience as the jungle was thick on both banks and we saw monkeys, water buffalo and wild pigs all going about their business as we dodged massive logs, spontaneous boulders and sand banks on the river course.

On board the long boat speeding up river.

After 2.5 hours we arrived at Kuala Tahan, a tiny settlement on the bank of the river set up as entry point to the protected region of the jungle with it's floating restaurants and ramshackle accommodation. Our room was most interesting painted in a sickly green psychodelic flooring and bed linen but had a/c which we were pleased about as it was so hot as the humidity was over 90% which produced a constant haze which would later turn to rain in the evenings which made it just about cool enough to sleep.
To enter the virgin jungle you have to catch a boat from the river bank which will take you across for a princely sum of 18p each and drop you on a jetty where you hike up the bank and into the rangers office for info on the tracks and events offered.  We decided the best chance of seeing any wildlife would be to go it alone as if we went on a tour there would be no chance of seeing animals as large groups tend to be noisy and scare the animals away. In the jungle there was supposed to be tigers, elephants, tapir, monkeys, squirrels, flying fox and other critters which I can't remember the names of. We set off early and were the first people at the jungle canopy walkway which was a 2km walk. The walk is about 40 metres up in the canopy of the trees and goes on for about 1km along a walkway which sways as you walk on it and is suspended by ropes and netting so you can see below as you walk. Not for those afraid of heights!



Kathy contemplates life as 'Jane' with Tarzan in the tree tops.

Next stop was a hike to the top of a local mountain for a good viewpoint to possibly spot wildlife. By now the jungle had became intolerably hot and the climb long and laboured as it was steep. The heat sapped our energy but we eventually made it to the top pouring in sweat and celebrated with some snacks we brought along. The view was OK but soon other tourists started appearing and it became less likely to see anything interesting wildlife wise. The walk down was just as tiring so I broke it up by swinging on vines like in the Tarzan movies while shouting "AAARRRGGGHHARRGHHHH" and beating my chest and doing grunts like a monkey which kept Kathy amused. By the time we got back to base we were exhausted and just flopped out all afternoon not to rise again until darkness fell. Then it was off to dinner on the floating restaurant which used to bob about as the wake of a passing boat sped by. We did not see any wildlife as the paths are well trodden by tourist so you do not expect to see any animals hanging out near these points although there are plenty of long distance hikes into the jungle where you can sleep overnight for up to a week if you want but you have to take a guide as there is no phone signal so easy to get lost. We did see a bush squirrel and also a naughty bunch of monkeys who used to hang around outside the local shop up in the trees and when unwary travellers used to come out with their goodies in their plastic bags the monkeys used to dart down and mug the tourist of their booty and quickly dive back into the canopy above. The monkeys are so curious as well. They spotted some locals picking 'fruit' from a dense bush on the side of a path and spent ages circling them trying to get a piece of the action but the women waved them away when they came too close. This went on for about 10 minutes until the local women had picked their fill and wandered off down the path. Straight away a large male sauntered over to the bush and started to help himself of the tempting fruit. About 30 seconds later the monkey was acting in a very bizarre fashion as it pulled faces and started hacking like a 40 a day smoker. Kath and I went over to investigate and found that the bush was actually green chillies so we just turned around mocked the monkey in his discomfort for being so greedy.

 

 
Naughty monkeys in action.

Next morning after 3 nights in the jungle we boarded a local bus to Jerantut where we were going to hole up for a couple of nights to catch up on stuff as I needed a haircut before we head onto our next destination Cherating.